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11 November Phi Phi Trip ReportThis is re-posted from my original site. My trip to Phi Phi in Thailand in March 2004.
Koh Phi Phi is simply the most beautiful and amazing place I have ever been to!
If travelling by boat, you’ll see the huge rock faces as you approach Phi Phi (pronounced ‘pee pee’). You’ll go round the rock face into Tonsai Bay. Upon arrival, you get off at the Jetty on Tonsai Bay (assuming you’re staying at one of the hotels in this part of the island). There are no roads to speak of as there are all path ways. When you get off the boat they will be several representatives with big trolleys to help carry your bags to the hotel. These are called taxis!
I initially stayed at the Phi Phi Hotel which is one of the very few multi-story buildings. New regulations prohibit such buildings now. The Hotel is very close to the Jetty. We stayed on the top floor (5th Floor) with a huge veranda adjacent to our rooms. This is great for taking photo’s as you’re in a good elevated position. However, this is the only good point in my opinion. You don’t get the Phi Phi experience sitting on the 5th floor. We found it awkward to get ourselves to the beach.
There are two bays at this part of the island, Tonsai Bay and Lodalum Bay. The Phi Phi Hotel is on Tonsai Bay. This side of the island is right near the main eating areas, bars and shops. Walk 150-200 meters across the island and you end up on Lodalum Bay. There are loads of shops in the little alley ways between the beaches. Lodalum Bay is the more chilled-out part of the two bays. There are several hotels that offer bungalows right onto (or near) the beach. Another benefit is that Lodalum Bay has a great beach! You can walk out about 300 meters and still only be knee deep in water (depending on the tide). Also, when getting off the jetty on Tonsai Bay; there are bungalows to the left in old Tonsai village.
We initially (me and my friend Nick) flew to Singapore, then got a connecting flight to Phuket. Got a taxi to one of the piers that have ferries going to Phi Phi. We jumped on the boat and off to Phi Phi. About 2 hours later, we arrived, checked-in and had a shower in the Phi Phi Hotel. Being quite hungry, we went to a small restaurant which had tables on Tonsai beach and had something to eat and a beer! Passing the seafood out-door restaurants is a sight! All fish is fresh from the days catch. You pick the fish and they BBQ it for you! Fantastic!
It is worth noting when there are public holidays in Thailand. There seem to be loads! The day we arrived was public holiday so all the "happening" bars were closed. But, this didn't stop Nick from finding the best bar to chill-out at! A small wooden bar 5-7 meters from the sea with 6 people around it. All you can hear are the small waves, excellent music at a soft suitable volume and a little chit-chat in the background. Very ambient! Perfect! This bar was later referred to as our “favourite bar”. It is located on Lodalum Bay right next to Ciao Bella which has very good food, also does BBQ fish and has a very relaxed atmosphere.
You cannot come to Thailand and not have the most amazing traditional Thai massage! They are all around Phi Phi. I highly recommend a 2 hour massage (which costs 400 Baht). You’ll find that a 1 hour massage is too short.
Another trend you’ll find is that drinking Coco-Cola is replaced with fresh orange juice. Eating takeaway foods is replaced with fresh BBQ’d fish. And the hectic fast life is replaced with by totally relaxing on the beach with a Singha beer.
One of the days I saw some Thai kids playing kids games on the beach. It reminded me how little I see kids in the U.K. playing and enjoying them selves in such a social manner. It seems like its all Xbox, PlayStation etc... Phi Phi reminds you that the Hi-Fi Stereos, the expensive TVs, the gadgets, etc… actually mean nothing. We didn’t care once to switch on the TV. Why would you when you’re in paradise!
Phi Phi is much more developed than I thought. Nick and I at one point discussed how the film "The Beach" must have contributed to the rise in popularity here. I should have come here 7 yeas ago when I originally wanted to. But this is not to diminish how lovely it is here. Phi Phi can be quite hot!
One of the things that also hits home is the absence of cars. It's great to walk around the island and have no traffic, no fumes and no noise.
My recommendations...
How to get there? - When you get to Phuket International Airport: Option 1, get a taxi to the pier (costs about 500 Baht) and organise a return journey on the boat (costs about 750 Baht, 400 Baht one-way). Option 2, walk out of the airport onto the main road, turn left and walk about 40 meters. This is the Blue Water Air office and get a return flight to Phi Phi (costs about 5000 Baht, 2500 one-way). The flight takes around 20 minutes and I definitely recommend that this is the best way to get there. You get a great view from the air and if your hotel is on Lodalum Bay, the speed boat from the pontoon will drop you right in front of the hotel reception on the beach. To book with Blue Water Air, it's best to phone them direct on +66 (76) 351 438.
Where to stay? - I highly recommend the Charlie Beach Resort (costs 1990 Baht a night). The staff are great and they have bungalows right near the beach. Oh and the breakfast is good! If you’re not staying there, choose another hotel with bungalows on or near the beach. The Charlie Beach Resort is located in the middle of Lodalum Bay.
Where to eat? - Most nights we went to Ciao Bella on Lodalum Bay (about 50 meters from the Charlie Beach Resort hotel). They cater for vegetarian meals and do fresh BBQ’d fish. We found the best Thai green curry was at Fatty’s which is in one of the ally ways near the Phi Phi Hotel on Tonsai beach.
Where to party? - There are a few good party bars around the island. We tended to go to the Apache Bar and Carlitos. Both bars are near each other on Tonsai beach. Happy hour at the Apache bar is a great way to save an extra few Baht. 50 Baht for a Singha beer from 4pm to 10pm. Everywhere else, it’s around 60 Baht. Walk further along and you get to the Hippy Bar. This stays open 24 hours a day and serves breakfast in the morning.
What to do? - Relax. Take it easy. Don’t be in a hurry to do things! There’s plenty of time! But when you do get round to doing something, you must go snorkelling! This is fantastic!!!! You must go to Phi Phi Ley. This is a near-by island that is absolutely stunning and is also a nature reserve. This is where “The Beach” was filmed and you can take a swim and relax on Maya Bay. Maya Bay is the beach used in the film. You must go to Bamboo and moskito island! Some great snorkelling to be had. There are loads of PADI diving places around. If this is what you’re into, then Phi Phi is a good place to dive.
Should I bring a camera? - You absolutely dam right! This is the most beautiful place I’ve seen and hopefully some of the pictures here reveal some of that beauty.
How long should I stay? - We only intended to stay 4 nights. We extended this to 6 nights. We then went to Phuket and immediately wanted to come back to Phi Phi. I stayed in Phi Phi another 2 nights. Next time, I’ll just stay (hopefully forever… ;-) giggle…).
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